Battery state-of-health
Midtronics conductance test measures internal resistance — the real indicator of plate condition. You get a percentage: 100% is brand new, 60% means you've got maybe 6 months left, under 50% and it's done.
Free Battery Testing Perth
Proper on-site battery AND alternator testing, anywhere in Perth. No callout fee, no obligation, no upsell.
CALL NOW (08) 9456 4378Avg response: 30 min
Free · No obligation
Find out what's actually wrong before you spend money
Most batteries get replaced because someone guessed. The car was slow to start, so they assumed dead battery. Half the time it's actually the alternator. The other half it's a parasitic drain. The new battery dies in two weeks for the exact same reason, the customer is annoyed, and the underlying problem is still there.
We come to you, anywhere in Perth, and test the battery AND the alternator with proper Midtronics gear. Same testers the dealers use. If your battery is fine, we'll tell you straight and you keep your money. If something else is the problem, we'll tell you what it is. No callout fee whether you end up buying a battery or not.
- Midtronics conductance tester (dealer-grade gear)
- Battery AND alternator tested every time
- State-of-health percentage you can actually act on
- Honest answer: replace now, replace by summer, or come back in 12 months
- No callout fee, no diagnostic fee, no obligation to buy
- Same price 3pm Tuesday as 3am Saturday — 24/7, no premium
Not sure if it's the battery? Free test, anywhere in Perth — (08) 9456 4378.
CALL NOW (08) 9456 4378What we test
The full diagnostic, not just a voltmeter check
Most cheap battery tests only check voltage. That catches a battery that's already flat. Ours catches one that's about to be.
Cranking voltage under load
We watch the voltage while the engine actually cranks. A battery that reads fine at rest but drops below 9.6V during cranking is on the way out — that's the test that catches a soon-to-fail battery before it strands you.
Alternator output (no load)
Engine running, no accessories: should be 13.8-14.4V. Below 13.5V and the alternator isn't keeping up. Above 14.6V and the regulator is faulty — that one will literally cook your battery.
Alternator under load
Headlights on, aircon on, demister on. Should still hold above 13.5V. If it drops under load, you're going to be back here in a few weeks with another flat battery.
Parasitic drain check
Multimeter in series with the battery's negative cable, car fully off. Anything over 80mA is a problem — dashcam wired wrong, glove box light stuck on, dodgy aftermarket alarm. We help you trace it.
Terminal & cable check
Corroded terminals are common in Scarborough, Cottesloe, Fremantle — anywhere the salt air gets at them. We check for resistance at the connections, not just the battery itself. Sometimes the "flat battery" is just a bad connection.
When to book a test
The five times you should get tested before assuming
- You've needed a jump start in the last 6 months for no obvious reason.
- The engine cranks slowly on cool Perth mornings (June, July, August).
- Stop-Start has quietly stopped working.
- Battery is over 3 years old and heading into a Perth summer.
- You just bought a used car and you don't know the battery's history.
- Dashcam, fridge, or aftermarket electronics recently installed — make sure they're not killing the battery.
Want to do some checks yourself first? Read our guide on battery vs alternator or why batteries keep dying.
Common questions
Battery testing FAQs
Is the battery test actually free?
Yep. No callout fee, no "diagnostic fee", no charge for the test itself. About a third of our test callouts end with us telling someone their battery is fine for another year and driving off. We'd rather you call us back when you actually need a battery than feel like you got upsold.
What does the test actually measure?
Three things: rest voltage (the easy one), cranking voltage under load, and internal resistance (state-of-health). We use a Midtronics conductance tester — same gear the dealers use — which gives you a percentage and a yes/no answer. The cheap voltmeter test most shops do only catches a battery that's already flat. Ours catches one that's about to go.
Do you test the alternator too?
Always. Half the "flat battery" callouts we go to are actually dying alternators draining a good battery. We check voltage at rest, at idle, and under load. If the alternator is the real problem, we'll tell you straight and refer you to one of the mobile auto-electricians we trust across Perth.
Can you test my battery without me being there?
We need access to the car, but you don't need to hover. If it's at home, work, or anywhere we can get to the bonnet, that's fine. Common setup: customer leaves the key in a spot and we test while they're at work or out. We text you the result.
How long does the test take?
10 to 15 minutes including the alternator check. Most of that is the alternator test under different loads. The battery test itself takes about 30 seconds — the gear is fast, it's the careful checking that takes the time.
When should I get my battery tested?
Once a year is a good baseline. Definitely if it's over 3 years old. Definitely before summer in Perth — we see a 4x callout spike in the first proper heatwave because batteries that were borderline in October don't survive February. Read our guide on signs you need a new battery for more.
Free · No obligation
Find out what's actually wrong with the car
We come to you, test on the spot, and tell you straight. Replace now, replace by summer, or come back in 12 months. Your call, our honest answer.
(08) 9456 4378 24/7 across Perth metro